Give strong drink unto him that is ready to perish, and wine unto those that be of heavy hearts.
I can't remember the name of the street anymore, I think it might be calle Grau, but anyway it's close to the center.
It's been a few years since I have been there, but at that time it had the following advantages:
- two nice barmen, educated enough to know there's more to life than salsa or dollars, and very openminded.
- a nice clientele, relatively few tourists and quite some locals
- cheap drinks (well, that goes for quite a lot of places in Perú)
- a "paper to put under your drinks" (I have tried for more than a minute to think of the proper word, but even in dutch I don't know), with an inspiring philosophy written on it (in Spanish, but various visitors have written translations of it in various languages). On the paper it says it's written by Borges, but that might not be true.
- the fact that I once performed a few Stones covers there with a local band. And I also did a version of "mijn platte land" (Brel).
In short, the sort of bar where once you have talked for a bit with the barmen and the locals, you can stay until way after closing time and get hugged a lot.